Category: Tear Down

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Tear Down

Drivetrain Removal

With the interior removed it was time to turn my attention to the drivetrain removal process. The Mustang was taken to Kenny at Hold On Tight Performance who began by removing the custom exhaust that had been installed by a prior owner.

Since we are restoring this to factory original, I knew the exhaust would not be reused. As such we simply cut it out of the vehicle and threw it away.

Here you can see the custom exhaust system that was on the car when purchased.

In place of the old exhaust system will be a complete concours correct reproduction exhaust system from Scott Fuller Reproductions. The system is an exact copy of the factory original system from the h-pipe to the exhaust tips. This system not only features all the concours correct components but also features the correct Ford logos, part numbers and date code. When reinstalled it will be virtually impossible to tell this reproduction from an original.

This angle shows the new concours correct exhaust from the H-pipe back.
The H-pipe is an exact copy of the factory piece, including the alignment tabs shown.
View of the exhaust system from the correct rolled tips forward.
The muffler features the Ford engineering number and date code.
Alignment tabs are also present on the intermediate/resonator pipes for muffler alignment.
Ford logo and engineering numbers are featured throughout the system.

The hood was then carefully removed and set aside. It would need to be reinstalled before the car was sent over to the body shop for paint and body work.

In preparation for removing the C6 transmission, we disconnected the driveshaft. Upon inspection we found the driveshaft tube had been replaced at some point in its earlier life. However, the original Ford 31-spline slip yoke and tube yokes were still present.

The driveshaft was then boxed up and send sent out to Dead Nuts On to be restored. The only way to properly restore a driveshaft is to break it down to its components, restore each component and then assemble it just like Ford did it.

On the original Ford 31-spline slip yoke you can see the unique machined area cut halfway down the inner shoulders.
Both sides still had their original Ford tube yokes, though it was clear the tube itself had been replaced at some point in its earlier life.

The driveshaft restoration service replaced the tube with the same electro resistance welded seamed tubing the factory installed. This way the welds, bare steel blue seamed tube and the color of the blue heat rings on the spot welded balance weights all look real because…they are real. 

Slip yoke was restored with the correct paint code applied.
Both of the tube yokes were also restored with correct paint code, and markings.
The driveshaft was high speed balanced with the correct spot welded rectangular balance weights.
Build sheet paint codes, specific to this vehicle, were added.
The tubing was replaced with new electric resistance welded (blue seamed) tubing.

Once the transmission was removed, we carefully cleaned it and inspected it for Ford engineering numbers, date codes and the all important partial VIN. This was typically stamped into the flat boss on the spine of the transmission main case just forward of the tailshaft.

Upon inspection we were able to clearly see several Ford engineering numbers, as well as several other markings which, to this point, no one has been able to explain their significance.

The Ford engineering number, C8AP, would indicate this to be a transmission originally intended for a full size Ford or truck.
Here again we see a casting number, C6AP, which would indicate this transmission was intended for a full size Ford or truck.
Even the casting number on the servo is a C6AP.
No one has been able to explain the significance of the large ‘4’ cast into the part.
Here we can clearly see a large ‘9’ cast into the side of the part. Reason unknown.

What is most interesting is the partial VIN stamped into the transmission main case. We had expected to find the partial VIN from the Mustang stamped here. Instead, what we found was a partial VIN from a different 1969 vehicle.

Partial VIN stamped into the transmission main case.

The leading 9 in the partial VIN confirms this transmission is from a 1969, but the assembly plant code of G means this transmission was supposed to go to the Ford truck plant in Chicago. In addition the consecutive unit number is slightly higher than that found on our Mustang.

This would explain why the Ford engineering numbers found on the other transmission components indicated they were intended for a full size Ford or truck.

So, it would appear this transmission may have been either pulled from the line due to parts shortages or it was inadvertently sent to the wrong assembly plant.

Given all the the evidence, I do believe this is the transmission that came with the car when it was first assembled…even if it wasn’t intended to be.

The transmission was sent out to be rebuilt. Once it returns it will be detailed including all factory paint daubs and markings before being reinstalled in the car.

The big block FE engines were truly shoehorned into these Mustangs leaving very little room on either side of the engine. When we went to remove the shock tower braces, we noticed the original shock tower caps had been removed and replaced with a Torino style unit.

Torino style shock cap with a single nut.

I was able to locate a pair of the proper big-block Mustang shock tower caps which will be installed during the reassembly process. These are original Ford pieces that have been restored and not reproductions.

After removing the cooling system, accessories and valve covers, and with some careful maneuvering, we were able to free the engine from the car.

Unlike the C6 transmission, there is no doubt this is the original engine. Here on the rear pad you can see the partial VIN, 9R187894, stamped into the block.

Again the leading 9 would indicate 1969, R is the assembly plant code for San Jose and 187894 is the consecutive unit number for this vehicle.

The Cobra LeMans valve covers, which were removed during the engine removal process, were sent out to be cleaned, striped and powder coated by Pristine Powder Coating in the original black crinkle finish.

Cobra LeMans valve covers in the correct black crinkle finish.

We took this opportunity to remove the original Ford water pump and send it out to be restored to like new condition. Notice the date code of 9D16, which translates to April 16, 1969.

Original water pump, date coded April 16, 1969, before restoration.

The water pump was completely disassembled, then the bare housing was hot tanked and sand blasted to remove paint and rust. The housing was then painted with grey primer. A new bearing, seal, hub and bypass tube was then installed. Finally the rear cover is sealed with a new gasket. Looking at the end result it’s hard to believe this is the same water pump. It will get painted Ford corporate blue with the rest of the motor during reassembly.

The newly restored water pump is ready for paint and installation.

Before sending the engine out to be be rebuilt, we removed the exhaust manifolds so they could be sent to Jet Hot Coatings to be cleaned and ceramic coated in a natural cast iron color.

To my surprise, when we removed the exhaust manifolds and decoded the engineering numbers we found these to be the same exhaust manifolds as were used on the 428 Cobra-Jet cars.

Cobra-Jet exhaust manifolds before restoration.

The advantage of having the exhaust manifolds ceramic coated is they will retain that ‘brand new’ look for many years to come. The ceramic coating will not discolor and also reduce underhood temperatures by more than 50%, resulting in less wear on components. These will be reinstalled once the rebuilt motor is completed.

Drivers side exhaust manifold.
Passenger side exhaust manifold.

Once the engine gets back from the machine shop it will be painted Ford corporate blue and the remaining assembly line markings added before it is reinstalled in the car.

Next Step: Off to Paint!

Categories
Tear Down

Interior Removal

After patiently waiting, it finally my time to get my Mustang Mach 1 into the paint and body shop. In preparation I had Ron from Auto Weave Upholstery (whom I highly recommend for anyone needing upholstery work) carefully begin the interior removal process.

He will be carefully cleaning and redyeing all the original interior panels back to a like new condition, as well as replacing the seat foam in all the seats since it had deteriorated after 51 years.

With the interior removed, you can see the original floor boards, underlayment pieces, etc. We had intended to strip the underlayments out and have the interior painted with the car. However, after seeing the remarkable shape of the underlayments I decided to simply leave it alone. We will only be replacing the trunk/backseat transition and the full width trunk gas tank underlayments. All the rest will remain original.

Underlayments are in extremely good shape.
You can see even the pieces for under seats are still present.
This shows the only underlayments needing to be replaced, the one for the transition from the backseat to the trunk and the one covering the full width trunk gas tank.

One of the interesting facts we found, because of its late build date many of the body panels had already been stamped as 1970 pieces. Shown below is the part number and date stamp on the original floor boards.

So I realize that may be hard to read because it’s actually stamped from the other side. So below is the same photo rotated, flipped and cropped so you can more easily read the stamping.

So now you can clearly see the date stamp, June 14, and the part number of D0ZB-63. The first character designates the decade. C would have been the code for the 1960s and D would designate the 1970s. The second character designates the year in the decade. So the code D0 would designate it as intended for a 1970. If it had been earlier in the model year run it would have begun with C9 for 1969.

Likewise, with the remnants of the headliner removed we can see the overall condition of the roof panel and the supporting structures. Here again we can see the date codes for each individual piece.

With the headliner removed you can easily see the condition of the roof panel.
Date stamp in the passenger side roof support.
This shows the roof support on the drivers side.
Here again we can see the date code on the drivers side roof support.

Next Step: Drivetrain Removal

Categories
Tear Down

Removing Lights

As I waited for an opening at the paint and body shop, I turned my attention toward removing lights from the car. I started with the taillights and side marker lights.

When I removed the rear side marker light on the drivers side, I discovered it was clearly burned. Clearly at some point that light got very hot.

Drives side rear marker light, showing the heat damage.

So I knew this meant I would now be searching for another side marker light. Luckily I was able to locate a complete set, front and rear, of NOS side marker lights including the bezels from a private seller.

Complete NOS set of side marker lights, front (white) and rear (red).
NOS side marker light bezels.
Here you can see the Ford engineering number.

Removing the taillights was far less dramatic. While they were dirty they were in extremely good shape. I decided I should disassemble and clean the taillight assemblies.

Taillight housing is dirty, but in remarkably good shape.

Here you can see the taillight assembly with the thick body gasket removed. The gasket was actually still completely intact and pliable. I’m unsure if I’ll be able to clean the gasket enough to be able to reuse it.

At this stage, the chromed outer ring has been removed.

By removing the red plastic brake light lense you can now see the two inner gaskets around the perimeter of the light housing. Again the gaskets were fully intact and pliable.

With those gaskets removed we can now see the bare taillight bucket, inside and out. Again these are in remarkably good shape for their age.

Here are the red plastic lense after being carefully cleaned. I spent particular attention to ensure the bright trim rings which are glued to the lense weren’t removed. I will hand polish these to remove any micro scratches, etc.

The chrome outer rings will be sent out to be repolished prior to reassembly. You can see just how much luster has been lost by looking at the protected areas in-between each trim ring.

Next Step: Interior Removal

Categories
Tear Down

Tear Down Begins

Every great journey begins with a first step. The tear down begins as we start the journey of its restoration to factory original condition.

In the case of this Mustang, the tear down I had already determined one of the previous owners had installed a Hays Stinger ignition (see “Sins of our Youth”). This meant I would not only need to remove the ignition box, but inside the distributor was a “mopar-like” magnetic pickup unit and a trick reluctor that was a press-fit onto the autolite shaft cam. Despite its performance gains, these items simply could not remain.

I carefully removed the coil wire and then the coil. To my shock, it turned out the coil was still the original factory unit. That’s right, despite installing several go-fast items, including what was at that time a state of the art ignition system, they had left the factory coil. You could still barely see the remnants of the original factory ink stamp.

Original factory coil. You can barely see the remnants of the factory ink stamp.
Factory coils had a unique yellow cap. Reproductions won’t match this color exactly.

The coil was carefully cleaned and restored by All Classic Motors to like new condition. This included restamping it with the factory markings. It was then set aside to be reinstalled later.

The original coil and coil retainer bracket were cleaned and restored to like new.
Here you can see that unique yellow top, now fully cleaned.

With the coil out of the way, I removed the distributor cap and spark plug wires then proceeded to remove the distributor. Here you can see the magnetic pickup unit and reluctor that were press-fit onto the autolite shaft cam.

Here you can see the various internal components of the Hays Stinger ignition.

With the distributor out of the car, it was easy to see the part number, and date stamp, 9E2, indicating this too was the original factory unit produced on May 2, 1969.

The date code, 9E2, means May 2, 1969 which confirms this is the original Autolite distributor that came with the car when new.

Overall it was in fairly good shape and would restore nicely. Knowing the Hays Stinger ignition is highly sought after by people building a period correct hot rod I carefully removed and stored all of the internal components for future use.

Here is a picture showing all the Hays components now pulled from the car.

The distributor was then completely stripped and rebuilt. It was not only returned to a new factory original appearance, but also made to perform like new.

Here you can see the distributor now fully restored including the correct Autolite coil tension wire.
Notice the factory correct white cap on the coil tension wire.
Gone are the Hays components and in their place are the correct factory plates, points and condensor.
Close up of the coil tension wire showing the embossed ‘Autolite’.

While I was at it, I decided now would be a good time to order a reproduction Autolite distributor cap from National Parts Depot and a set of plug wires with the proper factory markings and date code from Marti Auto Works.

Notice one plug wire has an orange colored boot. This was done intentionally because during production two plug wires were crossed as installed on the engine. To avoid confusion during assembly, the workers were instructed to make sure the orange boot was put on the number 6 spark plug.

Reproduction Autolite spark plug wires with the correct factory markings and date code.
Reproduction Autolite distributor cap.

Next Step: Removing Lights